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Koshpendiler Alemi Ethnoaul (Universe of Nomads): the heritage of the steppes in the center of the metropolis |
The Koshpendiler Alemi Ethnoaul or the Universe of Nomad - the heritage of the steppes in the center of the metropolis - was organized at the Kazanat (horse racing) hippodrome. It was the day when we watched the horseback archery competition, we visited the Ethnoaul, which happened to be held at the same place. I had heard about it from the World Nomad Games website, but I had no idea on how it was going to look like.
So I was so thrilled and exciting upon entering the area. They organized it in a way where everyone would be able to immerse themselves in the rich world of the Kazakh people and be acquainted with the original culture of nomadic peoples. It was simply amazing!!! It was just like an open-air museum showcasing the nomadic civilization. No words could describe how lucky we were to experience it in such a short visit in Astana.
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Altybakan - Kazakh wooden swing (Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan) |
After checking out our ticket at the main entrance, we saw this big wooden swing, which later on I found out its name to be Altybakan - literally meaning six pillars. The Kazakh swings were built of six pillars. The ends of which were drawn with a strong rope with a cross-pole established on the top, and a pair of ropes for legs and a seat was secured (a big plank of wood). People stood out or sat down on it and swaying front and back. My roommate and I tried swaying on it. Well, it was easier to see than be done. Hahahaha... Perhaps, if we had this during our childhood, we would not have difficulty in swaying it around :P
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Shygys Bazary (Oriental Bazaar) - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
As we walked, we were entering the Shygys bazary (Oriental Bazaar) and smelled the delicious golden flaky Kazakh Samsa with savory goodness!!!Too bad that we just had our breakfast from the hotel. Therefore, we had to give it a miss and continued browsing around. Basically the bazaar was built in a row of yurts (nomad tents) - restaurants or cafes inside the tents - where people could taste the local authentic Kazakh national dishes, snacks, and delicacies.
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Sheberler Auyly (Village of Craftsmen) - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
We passed by the Sheberler Auyly (village of craftsmen) where you could purchase a variety of souvenirs. It was said that more than two hundred artisans from all over the country would present their unique products and share the secrets of their craft.
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Outdoor music performance from Atyrau and Almaty Region - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
The things that I found it most interesting there were the display of different styles of ethno-tent, which came from different regions in Kazakhstan. People were wearing their beautiful and colorful traditional dresses, completed with the head, shoes, accessories, and they were singing, dancing, playing the musical instruments, inside and outside, welcoming the guests from all over the world to visit their tent. They displayed their animals too, such as the Tazy hunting dog, hunting eagle, etc. Not only that. They were even displaying their food, and let us try their local delicacies, everything that were on display.
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Beautiful eagle and handsome owner :D - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
For the photo below: Initially they were outside the tent. So we asked them if we could take a photo together. After taking photo, they invited us to enter their tent. Inside, there was a display of their local food. Again, we took a group photo inside. Then, they asked us to taste their food, whatever we wanted. This warm hospitality was called "konakas" - a tradition of hospitality by providing the guest with the most delicious food and do everything to make them feeling safe and comfortable.
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Inside the Kostanay-tent - Flatbread, varieties of kurt (dried cheese), horse and camel milk, etc. - Ethnoaul |
Wow!!! I heard about their hospitality before I came here by reading the article online, but I never expected that they really offered their food from inside the tent. I thought that it was only for display.
There were so many varieties of snacks and food, with some that I never tasted before, on the table, such as: kumys (mare's milk), shubat (camel's milk), kurt and its varieties (Kazakh dried cheese) - including the colorful ones, qazi - traditional Kazakh horse meat sausage that only the wealthy could afford in the past, dried fruits (apricots, raisins, dates), nuts (walnuts), zheti shelpek - the round flatbread, roasted in oil, "bauyrsaq” - a round or diamond-shaped doughnut - a symbol of brotherhood, unity, and abundance, butter, cheese, samosa, etc.
If you never heard before, the traditional Kazakh cuisine revolved around lamb and horse meat, as well as a variety of dairy milk products. It was our second day of the trip and we had not tasted the horse meat yet because we did not know how it tasted like. We worried that if we ordered it in the restaurant as a dish, and if it happened not nice, then we would waste the whole dish. So when they offered us to try it, we did not hesitate a single second and gave it a try to it immediately!
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Inside Kostanay tent - Shuzuk and qazi - horse meat delicacies tasting. Yum!!!! - Ethnoaul in Astana |
I tried both kumys and shubat. Kumys was a bit sour. Perhaps they had kept it too long outside and not that fresh. Shubat was ok. Not really my favorite but I was glad that I tried. Then we tried all things in the plate that contained kurt (dried cheese). Some a little bit salty, some hard, some soft. Nice experience!
Then, it was the horse delicacies or qazi. I tried 2 types. First the one shaped like a cut sausage, but inside was lots of yellow fat. Another one also like a cut sausage, but more like mixture of meat and fat. If I was not wrong, it was called shuzuk. They usually smoked and dried it, and served it in slices as an appetizer. It was made by combining the rib meat and fat in an intestinal casing. Interesting right? Moreover, I was surprised that it tasted reaaaalllyyyy gooodddd..... hahahaha... really tasty!!! From there onwards, we ordered horse meat dishes a lot when having our meals in Kazakhstan :D They entertained us by singing and playing dombra - a long-necked musical string instrument - after that.
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Wedding ceremony from Karaganda Region + Shashu - scattering candies - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
In another tent, we experienced another Kazakhstan culture, which was the wedding ceremony that usually performed in the Karaganda region. They showed us the whole processes with music and singing, and at the end, they also performed "shashu" ritual, literally meaning 'scattering', by tossing out sweets, dried cheese, chocolates, etc. at the end of the ceremony, while reciting “nÅ«r zhausyn” (may the light of heaven fall upon you). This ritual was done as a symbolic act of wishing everyone wealth and happiness.
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Dumandy dala (joyful steppe) concerts at Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
We also had a chance to watch the Dumandy dala (Joyful Steppe) concerts representing the best regional groups from all over the country, consisting the ethno-folklore ensembles, Kazakh national orchestras, soloists, dance groups in the traditional ethnic style, poet reading, and so on. Btw, I was almost mistakenly that I had met Abai Qunanbaiuly, a very famous Kazakh poet, composer, philosopher, and also a founder of the modern Kazakh literature.
My Almaty's guide thought I saw his ghost. Hahahahaha.... It turned up that he had passed away long long time ago back in 1904, but Kazakhs people considered Abai, through his nationalism poetry, as one of the first cultural heroes to penetrate the surface of the entirety of their national awareness and the one who opened up Kazakhstan to many opportunities for education and philosophical diversity.
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450 Kurak-korpe recorded in the Books of Records of Kazakhstan - Ethnoaul at Astana, Kazakhstan |
At the ethno village, one of the unique events took place and I was lucky for witnessing the 450 Kazakhstani seamstresses breaking the world record by embroidering a patchwork blanket (1.5m x 90cm kurak-korpe with same size, technique, pattern, ornament and color scheme), when joined together, formed one huge beautiful carpet measuring 252m x 40m - included in the Book of Records of Kazakhstan "KINES", and nominated for the International Guinness Book of Records.
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Various Kazakh souvenirs from different regions - Ethnoaul at Astana, Kazakhstan |
And more artisan souvenirs from the Sheberler Auyly (Village of Craftsmen) at the photo above.
There were a lot more things to see and experience but too bad we did not have so much time to spare. It opened from 8 to 13 September though. If I were to visit on my time, I would browse the tent one by one and experience everything there and immersed myself in the beautiful culture of Kazakhstan (also beautiful and handsome looking people of Kazakhstan) Hahahahaha.......
Seriously!!!! Since we landed in Astana airport, we had already felt amazed with the beautiful and handsome looking people of Kazakhstan as many Nomad Games volunteers were waiting there to fetch their guests. You could witness it yourself from the photos I shared in my blog ;)
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More photos - Ethnoaul in Astana, Kazakhstan |
So, I hope you enjoy reading this and could imagine yourself how it looked like if you were there by just reading this. Bye for now :)